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My army is complete!
30 April 2012
As said a couple of times before, yesterday was my birth day, and the whole weekend I've had visitors around (not many, but they stayed long). Because I'm so busy with Warhammer lately, I asked a couple of specific models as b-day gifts, or money since these models are quite expensive.

With the models I had, the armies I created 2 weeks ago, are now possible for me to make. But when looking at the 1.000 point army I thought I had to make some changes:
  - Instead of the Firebelly as general, I've changed to a Bruiser as general. Adding certain magical items, I think this one will be a pretty hard hitting tank on the battle field.
  - The 15 gnobblers are completely removed now.
  - I lowered the number of Leadbelchers from 4 to 3.
  - I added a unit of Ironguts.

And speaking of Ironguts... With the Mourfang cavalry box I could opt to give them 2-handed weapons. I didn't do that (because of the 'always strike last' rule), and instead I equipped the Mourfang cavalry with a fist and heavy armor (giving them an armor save of 2+). So I had a really HUGE 2-handed weapon lying around and I thought go drop that one on Ironguts champion.
Only problem there was that I already assembled all 8 Ironguts I had, and the glue was already hardened. So I had to cut the arms away with a knife bit by bit and try the new arms and weapon (from the Mourfang cavalry) constantly, hoping it would fit.
 photo WarhammerOgreKingdomsIrongutschampion20120430_zps7776321a.jpeg
The end result is stunning! But I do need to use some green stuff to full two small gaps at his back between his shoulders...

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New ogres (from eBay)
24 April 2012
Yesterday an order I made on eBay finally arrived: the old Ogre Kingdoms Battalion box. This box contains 6 Ogre Bulls, 4 Leadbelchers, 4 Ironguts and 24 gnobblars (yeah, the same box I bought about 5 years ago) and all models, aside from the 4 Ironguts were glued already. Back then this box had a retail price of 90 if I remember correctly, and the contents of the box now holds a value of 120, and the final price I paid for it was only 60 including shipping.

But since I didn't have a good day yesterday, I took a closer look today at the models. Yeah, some were glued alright, but what kind of glue did he use? Constructional superglue or what? And more over, how did the guy glue them? All parts that were glued together had a lot of excess glue all over their contact spots

Then there is the problem of 'cleaning' the model from the extra plastic that's left from the molds and cutting the pieces from their sprue's. Well, he didn't clean them at all, leaving a daunting task for me there to clean the models of all remaining plastic that should not be there - kinda an odd job when a model is already glued, and hard as well, since I can't get to all the places with the knife anymore

Lastly, with all that weirdo glue, comes the problem I had with making the 6 glued Orge bulls fit into my own army. I do need 3 bulls with a fist weapon, and 3 using two weapons, but with the glue used, it's kinda impossible to remove an arm and add something new. Since one Ogre bull was assigned as standard bearer, I had to remove the hand that's holding the banner instead and glue a fist on it as replacement.

Ah well... I'm nagging now about the models, but I have already 'cleaned' the Ogre bulls and am ready to give them their proper weapons. The already assembled Leadbelchers won't be touched for now (I have no use for them in my 2.000 point army yet), and the 4 Ironguts are not assembled, and I'll assemble them later this week myself, making a unit of 8 Ironguts in my 2.000 point army

Then the gnoblars... I didn't take a good look at them, but I'm sure those are not cleaned as well. I dropped them all in a big box where I keep all my unassembled gnobblars, and am not sure I'll ever assemble (or use) them. As I wrote last week, my 1.000 point army uses only 15 gnobblars, and I'm looking for a way to remove them completely, though that would be a waste of my time and effort to make a gnobblar command & control unit.

For now I have enough new models to work with, as well as finish the current 'work in progress' . With my upcoming birthday this Sunday (which I don't really celebrate), I've asked those who insist on coming for some specific Ogre Kingdoms units. When I get the ones I really hope for, both my 1.000 and 2.000 point army are complete and I'll be ready to play *YAY*

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All about detail now
20 April 2012
I remember when I bought that Ogre Kingdoms battalion box that my friends said that it'd be easy to paint all those large models. Well, by now I know they're wrong.

Now that I'm done with the skin and pants, the smaller things and the details are to be done. With smaller things you have the think about weapons, the ogre's belly plates and the alike, and details are the even smaller things, like the sows in the back of their pants, nails used everywhere, their faces (very important one I almost forgot to mention ) and other miscellaneous stuff.

And when you think after all those details an ogre army is ready, you're wrong. Ogre's are known for the use of their tribal runes as well as tattoos on their bodies. As tribal runes, I'm thinking to make the ogre army a 'Sun admiring' clan, and on their banners I'll drop some runes that tell tales of their tribe in general.

The tattoo thing is one I'm in doubt about though. What the guys at Citadel see as tattoos, I see as huge paint smudges over a nicely painted model. Yes, they think half-painted faces like Mel Gibson has in the movie Braveheart are nice tattoos. Well, I strongly disagree and will make my own (nicer looking) tattoos on the ogres.

Bottom line, When you look at my models now, you might think I'm almost done, but I thikn I'm not even halfway painting them. Looks like my perfection-perk is pulling tricks on me again

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Changes in army setup
14 April 2012
I've been looking at my armies, and there will be some changes in them. This also means that I need 3 extra models (2 boxes) to make this happen...

My 1000 point Ogre army looked like this:
   Tyrant (general)
   4 Leadbelchers
   2 units of 6 Ogre Bulls (inc. champion)
   12 Gnoblars (more a point filler than really needing them )

After the revision I added the 3 new models, removed the Tyrant and Gorger and it looks now like this:
   Firebelly (general)
   2 Mournfang Cavalry
   4 Leadbelchers
   2 units of 6 Ogre Bulls (inc. champion)
   15 Gnoblars (again a point filler )

Adding the Firebelly and the 2 Mournfang Cavalry to my 1000 point army (they're on my birthday wish-list now ) I was able to revise my 2000 point army as well. Though that army is still a long way to go (both to obtain the models required as in painting them), the new 2000 point army I have in mind will probably be a killer:
   Tyrant (general)
   2 Mournfang Cavalry
   2 Sabertusks (they used to be with the Hunter in the past but are now a separate unit)
   4 Leadbelchers
   8 Ironguts
   2 units of 9 Ogre Bulls (inc. champion)
Most notably in the 2000 points army is the lack of gnoblars. They are fun to have, but I think they're an annoyance as well to have around on the battlefield. Not to mention, compared to the Ogres, they're really weak models (what do you expect for 2.5 points each?) and very slow as well. My guess is that gnoblars have to be used as cannon fodder to the ogres, but it's hard for these small creatures to keep their pace with the ogres; before you know they're falling behind and their use as cannon fodder will be dramatically nullified...

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Old and new paint
05 April 2012
Starting after all this time painting models again, leaves me with a lot of 'old' paint. The last 5 years there have been some changes in the Citadel paint range, and coming Saturday a whole overhaul well happen. The new paints coming next Saturday are said to be better suited to their needs, but will they..? But since I have no clue about the upcoming paints, and won't buy any of them unless I need a color, I'll stick to the old paints I already had and the new one that I bought earlier this week.

Below are some Ogre's I painted today and I want to use them as example on the quality of the paint and how well they stick to the black undercoat.
 photo Warhammerpaintresults04-04-2012_zps336f4573.jpeg
The green one is the 'new' color I bought earlier this week: Knarloc Green. It is a so-called 'foundation' color, and I thought it was a lot of BS to have a difference in the kind of color. More so because the old colors I still have don't have the difference between foundation or regular paint. Well, this foundation color is a very good one because it took one stroke with the brush and it had a 100% coverage.

The blue one is the old color Regal Blue. Though at first glance it might seem it's a 100% coverage of the paint as well (I applied it with 1 layer as well), taking a closer look at the blue, it does reveal some lighter parts showing the black undercoat a bit. Since it's only a foundation layer that'll get a wash and dry-brush, I won't bother too much with it, and I guess the additional effects will conceal the lighter spots.

Then the 2 red pants. Both of them were done with the old color Red Gore. Now this red has a real pigment problem! The left one did get a pretty 'good' result after I applied 4 layers of the paint, and still I'm not satisfied with the effect, though I like the dark and gore color it gives.
The right one I gave a Skull White foundation first and then applied the Red Gore. As you see, it's a lot lighter because of that (too bad), but with the 1st layer I applied it was already pretty good. Too bad, I didn't pay too much attention to the Skull White I used as foundation, where some parts were thicker than others, causing the Red Gore to show a bit of color-difference. Adding a 2nd layer of Red Gore gave a better effect.

Now back to the upcoming colors next Saturday. When I read about them in the White Dwarf, I thought it was just a hoax, forcing us to buy new paints. Well, party it might be true indeed, after all, Games Workshop is a company and they do need to make money one way or the other. But it's also true that Games Workshop is all about the hobby of modeling, painting and playing with the miniatures. And to get the best effect in painting, the quality of the paint helps a lot.
Looking at the results I've had with the (over 5 year) old paint, I think indeed that the new range of Citadel paints will be an improvement. Giving us a whole new range of base (foundation) colors, layers and washes (ink) that'll cooperate more than before. And looking at the way the Knarloc Green worked as foundation on my Ogres, I indeed think changing (for the better) the formula and texture of the new paints might indeed give better paint results...

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Mini rule-book
04 April 2012
Since it's been years since I've played Warhammer, and I didn't get the (then) latest rule-book, I'm in need of the 8th edition rule-book for Warhammer. The only problem is that this new edition is a very heavy piece of work, and I mean that literally. The book is a hard-cover, close to 5cm thick and really weights a lot. It's not a book you'll take with you to a match out of the house.

Luckily, the starter set (costs 78) has a smaller version of the rule-book, skipping a lot of uninteresting stuff like 'how to paint your miniatures' and scenario's to play (though those might be fun to play once or twice). The only problem is that the starter set has two armies I really have no interest in at all (High elfs and Scaven).

So I took a peek on eBay to see if I could find myself a copy of this mini rule-book for not too much. Well, the book is for sale, but not at a cheap price. Prices (when bidding) go up to 20 (or $25 when I look at international auctions), and postage comes along with it, making the book very pricy up to (and over) 30.

But today was my lucky day I think. After a week of scooping the eBay auctions for this book (and not winning any of them because of the ridiculous high prices they end up with), I found one in the US for only 15 in a 'Buy now' auction. And postage was only $10. Of course, I bought it immediately and have a 'cheap' rule-book for only 20.

Now I hear you wonder. Why not buy the starter set, keep the book and sell the rest. I realize that this is (or can be) cheaper than paying 20 for the rule-book alone, but I know myself. When I get my hands on models, I want to assemble and paint them myself, and before I know, I'm not only playing Ogres, but also start with the High elfs and Scaven.
If I can restrain myself from assembling and painting the models, then there comes the long way to sell them on eBay. I've seen these models on the US eBay for quite a nice price, but on the European eBay sites these models don't seem to be so popular.

Think for now it's best if I stick with the mini rule-book. Perhaps I'll get that big bible on a later date, but for now I'm good!

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Gnoblar Command & Control
02 April 2012
When I started with the Ogre Kingdoms army I had big doubts about the gnoblars that are included in the army. Then again, I started on the army long ago, and the gnoblars were close to useless at the time. Now with the 8th edition of Warhammer Fantasy Battle, the gnoblars are less useless and even can have a champion, musician and standard-bearer in their unit. Sadly enough, these models were never designed though

But no fear! One of the best things about the Warhammer hobby is that you can change the models to your own needs, and I was in need of the Command & Control unit. So I took out the old green stuff that I still had (I did have to apply a lot of water to get it usable - the blue part was very dry) and a paperclip and made my own C&C unit.
 photo WarhammerGnoblarCC02-04-2012_zpsaef68417.jpeg

The champion above is the look-out gnoblar from the Ogre standard-bearer and I gave him a human sword. I'm not sure from what model I took the sword, but I think it's an Empire wizard (I have 2 models on sprue but no box anymore). I cut off the hand of the gnoblar and glued the sword on to the wrist. Applying the sword was a bit hard sine it is rather heavy and there is only a very small spot to glue to the wrist. As a last resort I decided to glue part of the hilt to the helmet's horn and that did the trick.

The musician was the gnoblar with the broken glass bottle. I cut off the bottle, heated a bent piece of the paperclip and stuck it in his hand, on the spot where the bottle was. Next I applied the green stuff and molded it to resemble a hollow cow's horn that can be used as musical horn. I am not 100% satisfied with the horn though, but I think paint will make it look better than it is now.

Then the standard-bearer. The model as you see it didn't get any modifications at all. All I did was glue a long, straight piece of the paperclip to his hand and the base. When the glue was dry I applied a (shoulder)shield from the Ogre Ironguts. Again, let the glue dry and when it had dried, I wrapped the green stuff around the paperclip to resemble a branch of tree where the captured shield was attached to.

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Ogre skincolor
30 March 2012
Yesterday I made a start with painting the ogres. After making their undercoat black, I applied the first layer of Elf Flesh and was rather sad. The black undercoat was too dark for the much lighter Elf Flesh and made it a bit green on the thinner painted parts. Adding a second layer of Elf Flesh removed this problem mostly and where the greenish still shone through it have a good (not participated) effect.

Next up was a layer of Rotting Flesh that I applied as thick dry-brush to make an accent of dead flesh that I wanted the Ogres to have. After this dry-brush of Rotting Flesh, I applied a 2nd dry-brush layer, but this time a very thin layer of Bleached Bone.
 photo WarhammerOgreskincolor30-03-2012_zps1d3e20f9.jpeg

I realize that the colors used are not 'your avarage Ogre' colors as use by the Games Workshop artists. But frankly, I don't like the overly green looks of that those artists give to the Ogres. As an old-school Advanced Dungeons & Dragons player, I've learned that Ogres have a very light flesh color with dead pigment on it. And using my color-sceme I think I managed to get that effect pretty nicely.

The picture I just made is not showing the effects I made, but it does show the general lighter skin I made. I made the picture with my cellular phone and though it has a good camera, it's not overly well for detailed stuff like painted miniatures. Perhaps I should charge some batteries and get out the old digital camera to make pictures of my miniatures

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First regiments ready to be (re)painted
28 March 2012
I finally finished assembling the Ogres and I'm ready to (re)paint them. But before I'll do that, I noticed that the lead models do have some HUGE gaps (as always with the lead models) that have to be filled with green stuff.
 photo WarhammerOgreKingdoms28-03-2012_zps7a1fd106.jpeg
After adding the green stuff, I might also add more details on the plastic models, and then I'm really ready to (re)paint them.

You might have noticed the (re) in front of the paint. I did that on purpose. The regiment that's already partly painted will be redone as well. First off, because I have no clue what color-sceme I used 5 years ago, and secondly (more important), I think they're too 'sun tanned' for ogres. Okay, they might be in the sun a lot due to their size and lack of houses (they'll probably live in caves), but even then they're too dark and too 'clean'.

When you look at a human with obesity, one might notice that their skin is more pale than that of one without obesity. Also, most people with obesity tend to have hygiene problems, not being able to clean too well between the wrinkles of fat hanging over their body.

Since ogres are less hygienic than people (a lot less!), I figured to make their skin around wrinkles very dirty, including pus coming out from between the wrinkles. I know it sounds very disgusting, but I want the army to be very 'real'. Also, as said above, I want to make the skin of the ogres very light. though they might be in the sun a lot, I figure their unhealthy skin might make it hard to get a sun tan. I won't go as far as giving them a 'rotting flash' color, but it might come rather close

Now that I'm done with the ogres, their little pets are next to be done. I have a regiment of 24 gnobblers to clean and glue, and I think I'll make a couple of conversions in that regiment as well. For startes, I do need a champion, musician and standar-bearer for them (I learned that they are allowed those in 8th edition Warhammer). This will also give me the oppertunity to 'relearn' the conversion process of models again as well

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Picking up an old hobby - Warhammer
27 March 2012
I'm not sure I've ever written about this old hobby og mine here: Warhammer (Both Fantasy Battle as 40.000). Actually, I'm quite sure I've never written about it here. I started blogging in 2007 and I've played Warhammer in the period 2000 to 2003 or so. I've sold all et the time because ...well, I actually don't know anymore...

One of my first models to be painted in hgih quality was King Louen Leoncouer. At that time still a lead model (now he's all plastic - nobility has fallen from grace I guess ) and liked the model so much that I decided to keep it, even when I sold all other models off.
 photo WarhammerKingLouenLeoncouer27-03-20121_zps1dc19e8c.jpeg photo WarhammerKingLouenLeoncouer27-03-20122_zps118ae739.jpeg
But at the time I didn't play the Bretonnian army at all. It just came with the starter box (not it has Dark Elf and Skaven in it) and I thought I had to get their King as well.

Instead, I played the Lizardmen army, which is heavily based on the Mayan culture. I had a full army of them for a 3.000 points. Though I never played on that size (I normally played the regular 2.000 point battles), it did allow me to come up with a variety of playstyles on the battle field. On tournaments (I attended a couple) I always had at least 2 army-lists, while at home I played a different army setup every time I played.

Of all models, one I thought was really special. My kroxigor champion. There never has been a real champion model, and I wanted my champion to stand out of the crowd, and boy it really did!
 photo WarhammerKroxigorchampion27-03-20121_zpsba7cb9f9.jpeg photo WarhammerKroxigorchampion27-03-20122_zpsadbc2041.jpeg photo WarhammerKroxigorchampion27-03-20123_zps8a765643.jpeg
This model has attracted a lot of attention on tournaments and people were wondering how I made it. Se for the first time ever, I've included the original creation photo's I made at the time. Just look at the huge amount of putty I have used there to full up the gap between the original kroxigor top part and the dragon ogre bottom part.

Right now I have a large number of Ogre Kingdom models which I bought a couple of years ago when I wanted to pick up Warhammer again. But due to 2 burn-outs, and a very hefty job in 2007 I never really got started with it again. But now I think it's time again to pick it up and give the modeling and painting a go again.

I will start easy with one (or two) basic core units - no conversions or extra's on them whatsoever, and the next units (I have 4 units or Ogres already) I might start to add 'extras'. I'm not yet sure what I'll do to the rest, but I'm sure slowly but surely I'll come back to that quality I did on the kroxigor champion

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